There are two kinds of pizza places in Los Angeles: places that make pizza, and Pizzana. I say this having been to many of the former over the years — the wood-fired Neapolitan spots, the New York slice joints, the Californian variations with unusual toppings — and while most of them are fine, Pizzana is doing something with crust that is qualitatively different enough to justify a specific post about it. This is not a general restaurant review so much as an argument about a single thing done exceptionally well, with everything else I’ve learned from taking my family there repeatedly built around it.
The Crust
Daniele Uditi developed the “slow dough” method that Pizzana runs on, and it is the reason the crust tastes the way it does. Rather than mixing dough and baking it the same day, the dough is prepared in the Neapolitan tradition and then allowed to ferment and proof for two days before it ever meets the oven. That long, slow fermentation is what produces a crust with a complexity you cannot get from same-day dough: the flavor is deeper and faintly tangy, closer to good bread than to the neutral, filler-like base most pizzerias serve.
The texture is the thing. The cornicione — the puffed outer rim — comes out slightly charred and blistered on the outside, soft and almost creamy in the interior, with enough structural integrity to fold a slice without it collapsing under its own weight. The kitchen uses stone-ground flour and San Marzano tomatoes, and you can taste the restraint: nothing is fighting the dough for attention. It is genuinely different from other pizza dough in the city, and the difference is noticeable on the very first bite. If you have only ever eaten same-day pizza dough, the contrast is a little startling.
Neo-Neapolitan Versus New York Style
Pizzana’s menu is organized around two crust styles, and understanding the difference is most of the battle when you order. The Neo-Neapolitan pies are the house signature: thin in the center, dramatically puffed at the rim, cooked hot and fast so the bottom takes on leopard-spotting. The New York-style pizzas are a different animal — larger, flatter, foldable in the classic slice sense, with a chewier pull. Both are made from the same slow-fermented dough philosophy, but the shaping and bake give them distinct personalities.
We have taken Madeline and Charlotte to Pizzana enough times that Madeline has made her preferences clear: she wants the Margherita on the Neo-Neapolitan dough, not the New York-style crust. This is a child who has made a considered preference between two types of pizza crust, which I attribute entirely to repeated exposure to good pizza starting at a young age. My advice, if you’re deciding for a table: order at least one of each style so everyone can compare, because the two really are different enough that people at the same table often land on opposite favorites.
What Else to Order
The burrata is the right appetizer. It arrives simply with good olive oil and whatever seasonal accompaniment the kitchen is running, and it is always worth ordering. The pasta program is a secondary strength — the cacio e pepe in particular is better than most standalone Italian restaurants in the area. Brad orders it on the visits when he is not ordering pizza, which is about a third of the time.
Save room for dessert, because Pizzana is co-owned by Candace Nelson — the founder of Sprinkles — and the chocolate cake is genuinely part of the reason to come. It is dense, dark, and almost fudgy, and it is not an afterthought bolted onto a pizza menu; it is a proper dessert that would hold its own at a dedicated bakery. We rarely leave without one, and splitting a single slice among the four of us is usually enough.
Which Location
Pizzana has grown into several Los Angeles locations, so where you go depends mostly on where you already are. We go to the Brentwood location on San Vicente most often because it is closest to us. There are also locations in West Hollywood on North Robertson and in Marina del Rey on Lincoln, plus outposts in Sherman Oaks and Silver Lake, so the Westside is well covered. Both of the ones we’ve visited have been consistent in quality, which is not always true of multi-location restaurants in Los Angeles; we have not had a discernible quality difference between visits.
Brentwood tends to be the busiest at peak hours, so if you have young children and want a marginally quieter night, going early — right when the kitchen opens for dinner — makes a real difference. The dining rooms are compact, which is part of the charm but also means a 7:30 arrival on a Friday can mean a wait.
Know Before You Go
- Brentwood address: 11712 San Vicente Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90049; phone (310) 481-7108.
- Brentwood hours: Mon–Thu 4pm–10pm, Fri 4pm–11pm, Sat 12pm–11pm, Sun 12pm–10pm.
- Happy hour: Mon–Fri 4pm–6pm at the Brentwood location.
- Reservations: Available through Resy; strongly recommended for weekend dinners, especially with a group.
- Best for kids: Arrive early in the dinner window; the Margherita on the Neo-Neapolitan crust is the reliable choice.
- Don’t skip: The burrata to start and Candace Nelson’s chocolate cake to finish.
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes Pizzana’s crust different?
Chef Daniele Uditi’s slow dough is fermented and proofed for two days before baking, which develops a deeper, more complex flavor and a puffed, blistered rim that stays tender inside. Same-day dough simply can’t replicate that character.
Neo-Neapolitan or New York style — which should I get?
The Neo-Neapolitan is the signature and my pick for a first visit. If you prefer a larger, foldable slice, go New York style. When in doubt, order one of each and compare.
Is Pizzana good for families?
Yes. We bring both of our kids regularly. The Margherita is a crowd-pleaser, portions are shareable, and arriving early in the dinner service keeps the wait and the noise down.
The Bottom Line
Most pizza in Los Angeles is a matter of toppings and vibe. Pizzana is a matter of the crust, and the crust is the product of a two-day process you can taste. Order the Neo-Neapolitan Margherita, start with the burrata, finish with the chocolate cake, go early if you’re bringing kids, and you’ll understand why we keep coming back.
