There are two kinds of pizza places in Los Angeles: places that make pizza, and Pizzana. I say this having been to many of the former over the years — the wood-fired Neapolitan spots, the New York slice joints, the Californian variations with unusual toppings — and while most of them are fine, Pizzana is doing something with crust that is qualitatively different enough to justify a specific post about it. This is not a general restaurant review so much as an argument about a single thing done exceptionally well, with everything else I’ve learned from taking my family there…