If you were to tell a stranger that one of the most sophisticated culinary experiences in Southern California involves eating popovers in the middle of a department store, surrounded by $3,000 handbags and the faint scent of expensive perfume, they might look at you like you’ve spent a little too much time in the California sun.
But for those of us who grew up in the “if you know, you know” circle of Los Angeles dining, the Neiman Marcus Cafe in Topanga isn’t just a place to grab a bite between shoe fittings. It’s a sanctuary. It’s a time capsule. And quite frankly, it’s a high-fashion religious experience involving more butter than your cardiologist would likely approve of.
With all the headlines swirling about the retail industry and the future of luxury department stores, I’ve found myself clutching my pearls (and my fork) a little tighter lately. I’ve been visiting this cafe with my grandmother for more years than I care to admit, and the thought of this tradition disappearing is enough to make me want to stage a sit-in at the cosmetics counter. Who knew that dining at a retail store could be so special?
Let’s dive into the “Legendary Ritual” that makes this place a Southern California icon.
A Ritual: It Starts with a Tiny Cup and a Massive Puff
Most restaurants bring you a basket of cold sourdough and some rock-hard butter patties. Not Neiman Marcus. At the NM Cafe, they treat you to a choreographed performance that has remained virtually unchanged since your grandmother was wearing white gloves to go to the city.
1. The Consommé: The “Warm Hug” Introduction
Before you even look at the menu, a tiny, espresso-sized cup appears before you. This is the Chicken Consommé. It’s crystal clear, piping hot, and tastes like the soul of a thousand organic chickens distilled into three ounces of liquid gold.
In an era where every bistro is trying to reinvent the wheel with “deconstructed” appetizers, there is something deeply comforting about this tiny shot of broth. According to culinary historians at James Beard Foundation, the art of a perfect consommé is a mark of a truly disciplined kitchen—it requires patience to clarify the liquid while retaining that punch of savory flavor. At NM Topanga, it serves as a palate cleanser and a gentle reminder: Slow down. You’re at the Ritz of retail now.
2. The Popover
Then comes the star of the show. If you haven’t seen a Neiman Marcus popover, imagine a golden, steam-filled cloud that has been baked to the point of structural impossibility. It’s crispy and eggy on the outside, hollow and airy on the inside, and roughly the size of a toddler’s head.
The “ritual” involves tearing it open while it’s still dangerously hot. This is where the “slow-mo” video comes in—as the crust yields, a plume of fragrant steam rises, signaling that it’s time for the final component of the trinity.
3. The Strawberry Butter to Accompany Your Popover: The Pink Magic
Enter the Strawberry Butter. It’s whipped, it’s pale pink, and it’s slightly sweet. Slathering this onto a warm popover creates a flavor profile that sits somewhere between a croissant and a cloud. It’s the kind of indulgence that makes you forget you’re five feet away from a rack of Givenchy gowns.
This tradition isn’t just a gimmick; it’s a piece of American culinary history. As noted by Smithsonian Magazine, the mid-century “department store tea room” was a vital social hub for women, and Neiman Marcus is one of the few remaining bastions keeping that specific type of hospitality alive.
The Main Attraction (not the Popover): The Mandarin Orange Soufflé
While I could easily make a meal out of popovers alone (and believe me, I’ve tried), I always find myself returning to my “usual.” If you want the quintessential NM experience, you order the Mandarin Orange Soufflé.
Now, don’t let the name confuse you—this isn’t a hot, baked dessert. In NM-speak, a “soufflé” is actually a beautifully molded, refreshing scoop of citrus-infused delight. It’s as if mandarin mousse and jello had a baby. It’s just something you have to try because it is hard to put into words. In addition to this unique delight, it’s the supporting cast that makes this plate a masterpiece:
- The Neiman Marcus Chicken Salad: This is the gold standard of chicken salads. No giant chunks of celery or weird fillers here. It’s creamy, perfectly seasoned, and exactly what you want to eat when you’re pretending you have a trust fund.
- Sliced Almonds: For that essential crunch that balances the creamy chicken salad.
- Seasonal Fruits: Always fresh, never “canned-tasting.” It makes the whole meal feel like a spa day on a plate.
- The Blueberry Muffin: Yes, you already had a popover. Yes, you are now having a freshly made blueberry muffin. Life is short; buy the shoes, eat the muffin.
There is a specific joy in the way this dish is plated. It feels deliberate. In a world of fast-casual bowls and plastic containers, sitting down to a partitioned plate where the fruit doesn’t touch the chicken salad feels like a win for civilization.
Why the Popovers Need to Stay
I’ll get real for a second: with the current state of retail and the corporate shuffles happening with Neiman Marcus, I’m genuinely worried. As the Wall Street Journal has frequently reported, the luxury retail landscape is shifting toward digital experiences, often at the expense of these physical “experience” spaces.
But you can’t download a popover. You can’t “Zoom” the feeling of sitting with your grandmother while she tells you stories over a cup of consommé. This cafe represents a bridge between generations. It’s one of the few places in Topanga where you see teenagers sharing a plate of fries next to octogenarians who have been coming here since the mall opened.
It’s about more than food; it’s about hospitality. The servers at NM Topanga often remember their regulars. They know if you like extra strawberry butter. They understand that you’re there to “Discover and Celebrate,” even if all you’re celebrating is the fact that you found a parking spot near the entrance.
According to the National Retail Federation, “experiential retail”—the idea that stores should offer more than just products—is the key to survival in 2026. If that’s true, Neiman Marcus should be the safest place on earth, because their cafe experience is the ultimate “stay-and-play” motivator.
Final Thoughts: Go Now, Eat the Popovers, Thank Me Later
If you haven’t been to the Neiman Marcus Cafe in Topanga lately, consider this your sign to go. Go for the popovers. Go for the nostalgia. Go to ensure that this beautiful, quirky, delicious tradition stays around for another fifty years.
Whether you’re there for a full-blown Mandarin Orange Soufflé or just a quick “Retail Refuge” break, remember to take a second to appreciate the ritual. Tear that popover, watch the steam, apply the pink butter, and breathe.
Shopping is stressful. Life is loud. But inside these four walls, everything is just a little bit more elegant.
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About the Author
Ginger Graham is the founder of Culinary Passages and a self-proclaimed connoisseur of “the finer things and the truest things.” With a background in travel and a passion for finding the heart behind every menu, Ginger spends her time navigating the SoCal food scene with her trusted (and furry) sidekick, Barnaby. She believes that every meal is a story, and every “checkout truth” is worth sharing. She still uses her grandmother’s tips for finding the best sales and the best strawberry butter.
